I love food, but that’s no secret. However, I’m sure the world would love to know what actually is. It’s not a single thing, though, but an idea. The single idea that there’s isn’t a single place in the non-touristy areas of Mexico with “bad” food. That means: There’s plenty of great places to eat.
Fighting COVID Starvation
As I walk down the peaceful streets of Playa del Carmen my nostrils are violently attacked by the welcomed scent of spicy, marinated meats and fresh corn tortillas.
It’s the first week of 2021 and I haven’t been here long, but I think I should live here for the rest of my life. Food is important to me and it’s here that I find shelter from hunger.
I can’t help but drool in anticipation of tasting the mouth-watering foods that work equally to lure me into the restaurants upon which they live.
It also helps that most places are open-air restaurants. That means they’re not quite inside, but also not quite outside. They’re great for warm weather and offer the luxuries of shade from the suns unforgiving rays.
They’re also perfect for the current global crisis on our hands. And just like in the United States, masks are required before entry. Hand-sanitizer, too.
Some restaurants are even taking extra safety precautions by checking temperatures, which I’m sure is great for those looking for a bit more peace of mind.
Don’t Need A Drink, Want A Drink
While traveling, I often find myself not only looking for food, but also good drinks. And by good drinks, I mean affordable, flavorful drinks that are either mixed or to be taken as a shot.
I know alcohol isn’t for everyone, so water is always a great option. You can either get bottled water as most tourist opt for, or if you rather not pay for water, just say, “vaso de agua,” which means glass of water. Don’t worry…it’s not tap water. Many restaurants also have other non-alcoholic drinks as well.
After a long day of activities, my friends and I head back to the streets in search of the perfect place.
Someone in the group keeps mentioning a shot we absolutely have to try, so as we walk down 10 Avenida Nte. our intent is to find it.
Eventually, we stand across the street from the 3D Museum of Wonders, at a place called El Ranchito de la 10.
Before even glancing at the menu perched outside the restaurant a man from within calls out to us. He persuades us to check it out, and we’re glad we do. Beyond a variety of tasty food items, they have a variety of drinks. Even the shot we’re looking for.
A shot of Mezcal with a lime dipped in sal de gusano. And though this is my first time trying it, it won’t be my last.
Sal de gusano, also known as worm salt, is a salt flavored with ground, toasted insects.
As I take the shot of Mezcal I immediately fill warmth radiate throughout my body as the spicy taste of the sal de gusano perfectly compliments the flavor of the alcohol, while allowing the lime to not feel as harsh.
Each shot is 90 pesos, but the guy is super friendly and ends up giving each of us two shots for the price of one.
I also order the “Big Burrito” with chorizo for 95 pesos and three tacos for a combined total of 60 pesos. Overall, for two shots, a giant burrito and three tacos, I paid $12.25. Not too shabby.
Unfortunately, once back at the Airbnb I realize there’s a problem with my order. The burrito is missing! And just like that, I’m back outside walking to a restaurant, frustrated and hungry.
It’s a five minute walk, but once I arrive and explain the issue to the man from earlier, he quickly apologies and goes to the kitchen to get another burrito started for me. And while I wait, he pours me up a couple more shots for free and I’m feeling GOOD.
Next thing I know I’m chin deep in burrito juices and I’m not hardly ashamed of it. I can’t fairly judge it for taste at this point as I’m intoxicated and subduing my hunger, but if I tried, I’d say it’s amazing and I definitely feel more than satisfied with the overall experience. And for these reasons, the place manages to secure a spot as one of my favorite drinking spots.
I later fall asleep for who knows how long and soon find myself looking for food yet again on yet another day. Thankfully, one of my friends is prepared, and mentions a place close by that supposedly has really good food. And after showing us photos, we are convinced it’ll be worth the trip.
After a seven minute walk we arrive to the El Fogon at Av. Constituyentes and 30 Avenida Nte. It’s close to Don Sirloin, another good restaurant in the area, and a ten minute walk from Coco Bongo (Playa de Carmen).
As we wait in line and the sun beams down on us, I realize I haven’t eaten today, nor have I drank any water.
Luckily, it doesn’t take too long to be seated and before I know it, I have a giant margarita sitting in front of me. Five tacos appear in front of me thereafter, but only for a moment as they quickly disappear into the blackhole known as my stomach. I then finish the margarita that ends up being stronger than I could’ve imagined, but all that I welcome.
This is without a doubt one of my favorite places on my trip and it’s very inexpensive at about 22 pesos for tacos and 70 pesos for a nice size margarita. And when I say nice size…just trust me. I will be back.
Late Night Cravings And My Favorite Place
In my search to satisfy my late night cravings, I’ve graciously stumbled across a few places. And though, I’m sure many things are subjective, the fact that these are two amazing options for those looking to stuff their faces at night is not.
As I relax on the couch enjoying the night with friends, I realize my feet aren’t the only things hurting, but my stomach, too. As it growls I can’t help but look to someone in the room whose hunger is as great as mine. And with a grin we communicate. It’s time to eat.
A couple of nights ago we passed a place that caught the attention of our noses, so that’s where we’re headed.
It’s a small sausage stand by the name of El Choripan and it rests on the corner of 10 Avenida Nte and Calle 10 Nte.
Once there, my friend and I both order two each, but I realize I’m 10 pesos short. The man behind the stand is nice enough to look pass that, so I give him the 150 pesos with the intention of later coming back to offer a tip.
This food cart has only two options. Sausage and spicy sausage. Each priced the same at 80 pesos.
We make our way back to our Airbnb, but the food doesn’t make it back with us. For a quick late night snack, it was a great choice and I definitely plan on going back.
Again I fall asleep as a food coma settles in. My eyelids get heavy and my vision blurs away as another day follows. And as I sit with my friends my stomach growls and I’m forced to leave them to visit my favorite place. La Cochi Loka.
I’ve been here many times and I suspect I’ll be here many more. Not only is it located very close to my Airbnb, it also has arguably the best food I’ve tried so far. Not to mention it stays open late.
A couple of nights ago was my first time coming here. As I walked to the window my mind raced as I tried to remember how to order in Spanish. Unfortunately, I failed, but the woman who took my order was kind enough to help me.
Ever since then I’ve been hooked. With a small, but mighty menu priced from 18 to 49 pesos, there’s plenty to enjoy in the form of tacos, panuchos, tortas, costras and quesadillas.
As I stand at the window my stomach twist and turns with excitement. I’ve been here over five times and I have zero regrets.
The meat is seasoned to perfection and the various salsas perfectly compliment the already amazing flavors. The ingredients look and taste fresh, and the food provides enough energy to go about the day.
If someone were to ask me what they should order without a doubt I would say the costras. I’d also try to convince them to get pork as that seems to be the meat they’re especially talented at cooking in this area.
The location is great. The people are great. And the food is exceptional.
It’s Different And I Like That
One of my favorite things about traveling is gaining the opportunity to try something new or culturally unique. But it can also be argued that I just have the inability to turn down food.
This morning I spent some time at the pier located near the Hilton Playa del Carmen, All-Inclusive Resort. It’s one of my favorite places in this area and it’s a great place to watch the waves silently disappear into the sand.
After leaving and taking a couple of hours to walk around in peace, I get a phone call from a friend asking me where I am and if I’m ready. Of course, I have no idea what she’s talking about so she spells it out for me. Birria de la 30.
It’s a 17 minute walk from where we’re staying and a 20 minute walk from Coco Bongo, but we figured walking would be better than a taxi as it gives us time to enjoy the city.
Unfortunately for me, I’ve already been walking for hours and my feet are silently crying. I know it’ll be worth it, though. I’ve seen plenty photos and videos, and I can practically taste it.
Finally making it to the restaurant, our hearts are immediately shattered. After walking to a place we have been craving for days, we get there and it’s closed. Oh, how fate must hate us.
After throwing a quick tantrum we gather ourselves and head out to find something else to eat. Waiting for another opportunity to check it out.
Luckily for us, time flies and the opportunity presents itself as fast as I could’ve hoped.
I end up ordering about seven birria tacos at 18 pesos each and birria for 75 pesos.
Birria is a meat stew Mexican dish that is made from goat meat, beef or mutton slow-cooked until it basically melts in your mouth. And a birria taco is what you get when you take that tender stew meat and put it into a taco shell, dip it into the stew, then fry it. You can even dip the taco into the birria. Talk about the circle of life…
When placed in front of me, the smell triggers a response from my stomach. A subtle rumble that forces me to bite down before blowing, causing me to burn my tongue. Still I have no regrets.
The food is great and as I sit with a full stomach, I enjoy some family time with friends.
As always, my days are a blur and as I blink my eyes, I find myself in another restaurant by the name of Zilta within walking distance from my Airbnb.
Unlike the previous place, I have no expectations for this one. I haven’t done any research, but everyone else seems to be set on it.
Upon walking in, we are asked to put our masks on, but three of us unknowingly forgot ours. They offer to sell some to us, but since we live around the block, we decide to just go grab them as the others get seated.
The ambiance here is great and there’s live music going which is an added pleasantry. I only wish I was wearing bug spray.
After sitting at the table looking over the menu, I finally settle on yet another burrito. Once the waiter walks away a friend leans in and asks me if I’d ever eat a bug.
I shrug and tell her I’m not opposed to it. And with a smirk she informs me she just ordered guacamole with grasshoppers on it.
Oddly enough, I find myself too intrigued to resist or be grossed out. I also have the intense desire to back up my claim of being willing to try an insect.
It ends up being worth it and they’re nothing like I would’ve expected. The flavor profile is like that of salt, but with a crunch. Nevertheless, I can say with full honesty…
Pineapple doesn’t belong on pizza, but grasshoppers belong on guac.
